Knockin’ on the Sky

Of Jackson Hole’s cragging opportunities, Rock Springs Buttress is the best overall day-climbing experience — a high concentration of quality routes, diverse styles, and high-caliber climbing for any part of the country.

Knockin’ on the Sky was established by Toby Stegman and Wesley Gooch in October 2012. The second-pitch crux is the prize, but all pitches are classic. The line charges up new territory on the far right side of the East Buttress: feature-rich granite, steep faces, overhanging flakes, and wildly exposed arête-slapping.

Pitch notes

All belays are bolted.

• P1 — 5.10d mixed, 10 m

  Short, powerful, and thuggish. Two bolts (the second is tough to clip — clip the hold out right; belayer be ready). Variation: 5.9 trad up the crack right of the bolt line; pull a small roof/bulge to the ledge.

• P2 — 5.12a sport, 20 m

  Classic. Multiple cruxes — one mid-height, a harder one near the top. Finish on a hanging belay.

• P3 — 5.10a mixed, 32 m

  Fun arête above the belay, slab, easy trad, roof pull to finish. Optional gear belay mid-pitch on a good ledge, or bolted hanging belay.

• P4 — 5.10c/d mixed, 33 m

  Wild, airy arête — work both sides. Crux is hard to read. Good ledge belay on top.

Gear

• A 70 m rope is required.
• 14 sport quickdraws plus one 24-inch trad draw
• Small trad rack: single cams to 2", plus a few small stoppers

Rappel

• A 70 m rope is required.
• The rappel is airy and not direct.
• Second rappel: clip a directional perma-draw to stay in line — go slowly or risk swinging into space. The first person down should clip a few bolts for directionals; a fireman’s belay is recommended for the second.

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