Climbing in the foothills around Pinedale is often overlooked — one reason Fremont Lake’s ice has stayed a secret. Each winter the lake probably sees only a handful of climbers. Still, the ice deserves more attention. About 8–10 regularly forming icefalls can be led or top-roped (some mixed). Routes range from WI 3 to M7 WI 6.
About Fremont Lake
Fremont Lake sits three miles north of Pinedale. Locals treat it as a recreational hub; climbers find outstanding rock on the northern half in summer and spring-fed ice in winter.
Season
Good ice consistently forms by early December, but access is best once the lake freezes solid.
Location
The best ice is concentrated on cliffs roughly four miles north of the Upper Boat Docks, above the eastern shore. A large peninsula less than a half-mile north of the ice — Moosehead Bay — is a useful landmark. Scattered icefalls also form near the very head of the lake.
Approach & logistics
Two options:
- Recommended: snowmobile or ski across a frozen Fremont Lake.
- Early season: scramble down from Skyline Drive if the lake is not frozen — gnarly bushwhacking. Waiting for ice-in is better.
Main Wall
The lake’s most ice-covered cliff is about 15–18 m (50–60 ft) high with several flows and mixed lines. The best route is The Blue Room — a 15 m WI 3+ to WI 5 ice curtain on the right side. Two bolted mixed lines (Greg Collins) ascend left of the main ice. More mixed potential (top-rope) continues left along the cliff. On a good year several mixed routes form to the ground. A bolted anchor sits about 30 feet above The Blue Room; top-rope access via the gully right of the cliff (bring long webbing).
Other flows
Depending on the year, six to twelve other icefalls form near the Main Wall. The prize is a 30–40 m flow above and right of the Blue Room at WI 4+ to WI 5 — conditions vary year to year.
Northern head of the lake
Several icefalls form near the head of Fremont Lake above the eastern shore. One early-spring melt/thaw flow is about 150–200 feet, low-angle, roughly WI 3 — bring an adventurous spirit for the hefty approach.
Printable guide
Download the free climbing guide for approach notes, routes, and maps. Always verify current ice and lake conditions before you go.
Warning & disclaimer
Ice climbing is extremely dangerous. Avalanche, lake-ice, and falling-ice hazards apply. Conditions change rapidly. By using this climbing guide you assume all risks. Guides may contain errors and carry no warranty. Free for personal use only.