A new direct start has been added to the Exum Arête route at Rock Springs Buttress, making an already classic climb even better. The original first pitch was little more than an easy scrambling approach following the line of least resistance. Now climbers can choose a better, more direct line up a beautiful wall of perfect granite.
Established in spring 2014 by Wesley Gooch, Toby Stegman, and Max Bechdel: a single 5.10c sport pitch (140 feet, 12 bolts). It is a natural addition and an awesome first pitch to both Exum Arête and Clowns & Jokers.
Location
Direct Exum Arête starts to the right and downhill a few hundred feet from the original first pitch of Exum Arête. Refer to the downloadable topo for a photo.
Gear
- Draws for 12 bolts
- Optional #1 red Camalot (1-inch) after the last bolt
- Bolts are painted and well camouflaged
Rappel
The pitch is 140 feet tall and there are no rappel chains at the top of this pitch. To descend, use the standard rappel anchors to the left of the belay (far left side of the major ledge system).
Warning & disclaimer
Climbing is inherently dangerous. By using this guide you assume all risks. Climbing guides may contain errors and carry no warranty. Free for personal use only.